St Helena: A Journey Off the Map (and Completely Worth It)
Author: Kavita Gokal
There are destinations you visit…and then there are places that stay with you. St Helena is one of those places. I didn’t quite know what to expect from St Helena… but I definitely didn’t expect to fall a little bit in love with a place that sits quietly in the middle of the South Atlantic Ocean and somehow, feels like the center of everything. From the moment you arrive, you realize this is not your typical travel experience.
Getting there (because teleportation isn’t an option… yet)
Once upon a time, you needed a yacht, a cruise ship, or a lot of patience waiting for a monthly mail ship.
Now? Much easier.
Airlink currently operates once weekly from Johannesburg; however, schedules are subject to change and travellers should confirm directly with the airline at the time of booking. Civilization, unlocked. Flying in from Johannesburg, a quick stop at Walvis Bay (because of course why not casually refuel in another country). As the aircraft approaches the island, you are met with dramatic cliffs rising out of the ocean, and you instantly know, you have arrived somewhere truly unique.
It is the kind of arrival that makes you pause for a moment.
The “don’t get turned away at the airport” checklist
You will need:
- A passport valid for 6 months
- Return ticket
- Pre-booked accommodation
- Medical insurance covering at least £175,000 (or equivalent) including evacuation cover (this one is non-negotiable). Proof of insurance is required upon arrival
- Entry Permit upon arrival costs £20 cash (over 12 years) or via the St Helena Tourist Card
And a very important note:
Cards are not widely accepted, there are no ATMs, and the bank closes for the weekend like it’s 1985.
So yes, bring cash. Think of it as part of the charm.
First impressions – wild, peaceful, and unexpected
What surprised me the most was how diverse the island feels.
One moment you are surrounded by almost lunar, volcanic landscapes, and the next you are in lush green hills. Then suddenly you are in Jamestown, a narrow valley town full of character, history, and quiet charm. It genuinely feels like a movie set… but without the crowds, queues, or noise. Just narrow streets, old buildings with personality (and probably secrets), and a rhythm of life that immediately slows you down.
And strangely… you don’t mind it at all.
Jamestown – Narrow Valley Town, full of character Jacob’s Ladder
A touch of history you can actually feel
Walking through St Helena, history is not something you read about, it is something you stand inside. Most famously, this is where Napoleon Bonaparte spent his final years in exile after being sent here by the British in 1815, until his death in 1821. Not exactly a bad place for forced retirement, if we are being honest.
But St Helena is also part of a rare trio of islands, along with Ascension Island and Tristan da Cunha, forming a British Overseas Territory. Remote? Just a little.
Locals are known as Saints. Imagine that becoming a saint just by being born in the right place. No miracles required.
A tiny island with a big backstory
There were no permanent residents until 1659 when the British arrived… along with the island’s first slaves. Before that, it was more of a “pit stop” for passing ships (Dutch, Portuguese, British…all passing through). Today, the Saints are a wonderfully mixed bunch with roots stretching across Europe (mainly British), Africa, and South & East Asia. Language? English. With a twist of island charm, of course.
Weather: four seasons in one day (sometimes before lunch)
St Helena has a “summer” (December to March), but honestly, the weather does what it wants.
- Rain in the morning
- Sunshine by lunch
- Mist rolling in by afternoon
Classic island behaviour.
- Coast = warmer
- Interior = cooler and greener
- Summer: 20–32°C
- Winter: around 14°C
Best times to visit:
- Whale sharks: January–March
- Dolphins, rays, turtles: year-round
- Diving/snorkeling: November–March (best visibility)
- Humpback whales: June–December
- Hiking: all year
- Festival of Waking (usually end of December/January to March)
- Birding: September–February (breeding season)
Money matters (a little old-school charm)
The local currency is the Saint Helena Pound (same value as GBP, but only usable here and on Ascension).
Important tip:
Bring GBP cash.
No ATMs
Cards not widely accepted
There is a tourist card via the local bank if needed
WiFi (yes, they have joined the modern world)
Real internet only arrived in 2023…iconic.
WiFi hotspots available
Local SIM cards available
It works… but don’t expect lightning speed. And honestly, you won’t mind.
Getting around: part road trip, part adventure
Hiring a car is your best bet if you can, go 4×4.
Driving rules (and unwritten rules):
Drive on the left
Speed limits: 30 mph (20 mph in Jamestown)
Roads are mostly single lane → hoot on blind corners (you will hoot. A lot.)
Going downhill? Give way to cars coming uphill
Always wave at passing drivers (non-negotiable island etiquette)
Where to eat (small island, big flavours, simple, authentic, memorable)
You might arrive thinking “remote island” … and leave wondering why everything tastes this good. A few must-tries:
- Farm Lodge Country Hotel – often crowned the island’s food royalty (book ahead or prepare for heartbreak)
- Anne’s Place – local favorite
- St Helena Coffee Shop – serving coffee so good even Prince Edward popped in for a cup
- Dans – another no-frills, big-flavour local legend
- Blue lantern – Great for steaks. Come hungry, leave questioning your life choices (those portions are no joke). A perfect accommodation choice for divers.
- Mantis St Helena – a slightly more polished affair, island style
- Richards Travel Lodge – where the welcome is warm, the style is fresh, and the views do most of the talking
- Dinner on the Deck with Chef Roy – yes, that Chef Roy (ex RMS St Helena), serving up refined island flair under the stars
- Fish Fry at the St Helena Yacht Club – the ultimate midweek ritual: plastic chairs, salty air, fresh fish, and a whole harbor full of stories. Less “restaurant,” more everyone-you have-ever-met-in one-place. Community run, where locals and visitors all pitch up midweek
If I could pack again…
- Less clothes (no one cares what you wear here)
- More patience (WiFi will test you)
- And maybe… just a slightly fitter version of myself for those hikes
Briars Pavillion
The Painters Pallet
‘’Lot’s Wife’’
St Helena wharf
St Helena Wharf
Narrow streets of Jamestown
Jamestown at night
Heart Shaped Waterfalls
Gorilla Head Rock Formation
Napolean’s Tomb
Farm Lodge Country Hotel
Plantation House
20 things you absolutely must do
(Or at least try… no pressure)
- Walking tour – Our walking tour with Sophia was less “tour” and more wander and wonder. You don’t rush here, you stroll. You pause. You greet people you have never met like old friends.
- Full day island tour – With Aaron’s Adventure Tours, it did not feel like a structured tour, it felt like being shown around by someone who genuinely loves their island and wants you to see it through their eyes. No rush, no pressure, just a really well-paced, thoughtful experience that lets you take it all in.
- Swim with whale sharks (bucket list unlocked) and dolphin watching with Wicked Wahoo – There is something about boats, open ocean and that slightly “will I fall in” feeling that makes you feel very alive. We set off on the leeward side of the island, rugged cliffs… the brief was
• Spot the Marine life
• Swim if we are brave enough
• Find whale sharks
Now full transparency: the whale sharks did not get the memo. Apparently, we are at the tail end of the season, so while I was mentally prepared for a majestic national geographic moment… the ocean of course had other plans.
BUT
Dolphins were on full “show off” living their best life. They didn’t just swim past they were alongside our boat. - Snorkeling/diving/kayaking with Seahawk Odyssey – jump in, gear up, and explore the island from a whole new angle… where the ocean does all the showing off and you just try to keep up.
- Fishing… then eat fishcakes (obviously)
- Go hiking…this island was made for it. Tom from Rockmount Tours picked us up for our hike to Blue Point.
Now, I was told it was a fairly comfortable walk.
And to be fair… it started that way.
But you know those hikes where:
The beginning is easy
The middle makes you question your fitness level
And the end makes you forget all your complaints?
Yes. That one.
But there were definitely moments where I paused and thought,
“Okay… I was not fully prepared for this part”
That said, it’s one of those walks where you don’t really mind. It is part of the island’s famous post box routes so somewhere along the way, you leave your name behind in a little box. No photos needed, no proof required… just a quiet little “I was here.” And then you reach the view. Wide open ocean, dramatic cliffs, nothing but nature in every direction. The kind of place where you just stand still for a moment and take it in. Suddenly, the walk makes perfect sense. St Helena has a way of rewarding you just when you think you’ve had enough. - Spot wildlife: wirebirds, seabirds, even quirky snails. One of the most unexpected highlights with Eddie was learning about the island’s endemic species, especially the wirebird. Small, delicate, and completely unique to this island. It made me realize how fragile and special this place really is.
- Climb Jacob’s Ladder – 699 steps. Almost vertical. Questionable life choices will be made. But the views?
Worth it.
Bonus: You get a certificate at the top (because you earned it). - Walk in Napoleon’s footsteps at Longwood House…you cannot come here and not meet Napolean…well his story at least. Imagine going from ruling an empire… to being sent here. No Uber Eats. No WhatsApp. Just exile and endless ocean views. Strangely though, I started to see the appeal. Not the exile part…but the stillness. The space. The quiet.
- Napoleons tomb – There’s something deeply reflective about it, like the island itself is holding onto pieces of the past.
- Play golf on one of the most unusual courses you will ever see
- Plantation House – Now, this is not just any grand old residence… this is where history casually lounges on the lawn like it owns the place (which, to be fair, it does). Visits to Plantation House contribute directly to ongoing restoration efforts, with all proceeds allocated to maintenance and preservation. Tours operate from December to March on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and outside of this period, tours are available on Tuesdays only.
- Meet Jonathan the Tortoise – the oldest living land animal, 194 years old. I don’t want to be dramatic but meeting him felt like being in the presence of a tiny, wrinkly time machine. While I was thinking about my step count and lunch plans, Jonathan lived through empires, inventions, and probably a few questionable fashion eras.
- Visit Deadwood Plain & the Boer Cemetery – felt like the island had changed outfits. Wide, open, slightly wild… almost like it could not decide if it wanted to be dramatic or mysterious, so it chose both. It is quiet in a way that makes you notice everything, your footsteps, the wind, your thoughts.
- Explore High Knoll Fort – Perched high up, it feels like it is keeping watch over everything. And the views?
Honestly, mind blowing. Just when you think you have seen the best one, another angle comes along and says,
“Actually… look at this.” - Drive the island…half the fun is the scenery and place names. Driving through Blue Hill and Sandy Bay, the landscape softens. Suddenly there is a different energy, more relaxed, a little greener, a little gentler. It is like the island is saying, “Don’t box me in, I have got layers.”
- Wander around Jamestown – where history meets everyday island life… colorful streets, slow rhythms, and little surprises around every corner that make you want to just keep wandering.
- Visit what might just be the world’s most remote coffee plantation
- Museum of St Helena and Ruperts Valley with Adam- Now, I’ll be honest, I walked in thinking, “Okay, quick museum stop… in and out.” That didn’t happen. Somewhere between old artefacts, handwritten letters, and stories of ships passing through this tiny island, I found myself slowing down… reading everything… actually feeling the history. It’s not a big museum. But somehow, it holds a lot.
- Ruperts Valley – At first glance, it looks like any other valley. Quiet. Open. A little commercial. But then you hear the story. This is where thousands of “Liberated Africans” were brought and buried, people who never made it back home, whose stories ended here on this small island in the middle of the ocean. And suddenly, the space feels heavier. Not in a dramatic way. Not in a way that overwhelms you. Just… in a way that makes you pause. It is quiet here, but not the peaceful kind of quiet. The kind that makes you reflect a little. Think a little deeper.
What struck me most is how life continues around it, this space now sits within a more industrial part of the island. There is movement, development… and yet, beneath it all, there is history that deserves to be remembered.
St Helena Yacht Club
Marine Safari
Blue Point Post Box hiking
Blue Point Post Box hike
St Helena Museum
Ruperts Valley – Liberation And Loss
Longwood House
Kayaking in St Helena
Blue Point
Jonathan The Tortoise – 194 Years old
Sandy Bay
St Helena
Why St Helena
In a world of over-tourism and constant connectivity, St Helena offers something increasingly rare:
Space
Silence
Authenticity
It’s a destination for travellers who have seen it all and are now seeking something more meaningful.
Why this destination just works (especially for our clients)
From a travel perspective, St Helena is such a strong, niche offering.
It is perfect for:
Clients who have “been there, done that”
Repeat Africa travellers looking for something different
Those wanting a slower, more meaningful experience
It pairs beautifully with South Africa, but it also stands confidently on its own as something truly unique.
And in a world where everything is becoming more accessible, this still feels rare.
The part I didn’t expect
I expected scenery.
I expected history.
I didn’t expect…
How friendly everyone would be
How quickly I would slow down
How little I would care about being “connected”
St Helena quietly strips away the noise.
Final thoughts:
Things I will miss (More than I expected)
Saying hello to strangers like it is completely normal
Not checking my phone every five minutes (who am I?)
The sound of the ocean just… always being there
And that feeling that nowhere is urgent, and everything can wait
Things I have learnt (Whether I like it or not)
You don’t need constant connection to feel connected
Slowing down is uncomfortable… until it’s not
And sometimes, the most remote places give you the clearest perspective
I came to St Helena thinking it was just another destination.
It was not.
It was a pause.
A reset.
A quiet little reminder that life does not always have to be loud to be meaningful.
One thing is certain:
I left the island…
but a part of me is definitely staying behind.
(Probably somewhere near a postbox… still catching my breath halfway up
Until next time, St Helena, you were something special. St Helena doesn’t give you what you plan for. It gives you what you didn’t even know you needed
And honestly?
That is so much better….
